There’s a stretch of I-70 in Utah which runs through a landscape nearly bleached of color. Then, once in the town of Green River, there is a former gas station repainted in bright yellow and orange hues with a truck reading MEXICAN FOOD and a sign reading TACOS.

The Texas BBQ landscape changes more often than you might think. In 2010 Franklin Barbecue, which was really just two trailers and some chairs in a former gas station parking lot, didn’t even exist two years earlier.